Pier Hill
Sea of Change Southend-on-Sea
Pier Hill Southend-on-Sea
Pier Hill Buildings
The
land
lying
between
the
Pier
and
the
Shrubbery
was
utilised
for
a
new
building
in
the
1890s,
up
till
now
little
development
had
been
undertaken,
the
site
consisted
of
a
few
old
wooden
built
huts,
including
a
few
shops,
a
café
and
Ingram’s
hot
baths.
With
increasing
visitors
and
the
construction
of
the
new
iron
Pier
the
Southend
Corporation
Pier
Committee
announced
a
competition
(The
Pier
Hill
Improvement
Scheme
Competition)
companies
were
asked
to
submit
ideas
on
what
should
be
built.
Mr
Thompson
(of
the
firm
of
Thompson
and
Greenhalgh,
a
well
known
firm
of
local
architects)
competed
in
the
competition,
and
his
scheme
was
selected.
The
winning
design
boasted,
Baths,
Promenades,
Shelters,
Arcade,
Bandstand,
Reading
Rooms
and
Clock
Tower
at
a
cost
of
£18,710.
In
1896
the
stone
laying
ceremony
was
performed
by
Mrs
A.
Prevost
and
finally
opened
in
1898.
The
sea
baths
became
famous
throughout
the
country.
Several
of
the
leading
professional
London
football
clubs
sent
their
teams
there
when
preparing
for
their
more
important
cup
matches.
Additions
to
the
sea
baths
and
other
parts
were
provided
later
at
a
cost
of
£12,150.
In
the
1930s
the
Bandstand
with
clock
tower
was
removed
and
moved to Chalkwell Park.
Over the years the use of the building changed, it became a tourist information centre and the Pier Foreshore offices, the arcade opened as an aquarium in the 1960s. In the early 1970s the building closed and was demolished in 1977 to make way for the Pier Hill green.
2020 Statue of Queen Victoria Clifftown Parade
The History of a Seaside Town
Sea of Change Southend-on-Sea © 2010 - 2021 P. J. Wren. All Rights Reserved.
HISTORY
GALLERIES 1
GALLERIES 2
AUTHORS/PHOTOGRAPHY
WEBSITE INFO
SOUTHEND WATER CO
MISCELLANEOUS
HISTORY cont
The
statue
of
Queen
Victoria
was
presented
to
the
town
to
mark
the
Queen’s
Diamond
Jubilee in 1897.
The
Memorial
of
Her
Majesty’s
glorious
Reign
was
a
gift
from
the
Ex-Mayor,
Mr
Bernard
Wilshire
Tolhurst,
which
was
executed
by
J.
M.
Swynnerton
at
his
studios
in
Rome.
The
memorial
statue,
pedestal
and
steps
was
made
of
Carrara
Marble,
the
whole
work
standing
something
over
twenty
feet
in
height.
The
Queen
is
seated
in
a
chair
holding
in
her
left
hand
a
sceptre
and
pointing
with
her
right
over
the
sea.
The
original
position
selected
was
at
the
end
of
the
High
Street
facing
the
mouth
of
the
Thames
so
as
to
command
the
view
of
passing
vessels.
The
pedestal
and
chair
are
Gothic
in
design
-
Tudor period - the drawings were made by Mr. Edward Goldie, F.S.B.A.
In
1962
the
statue
was
moved
from
Pier
Hill
to
a
new
location
in
Clifftown
Parade
where
Her
Royal
Highness
is
still
today,
facing
the
Thames
pointing
out
over
the
sea.
On
23rd
August
1974
the
statue
was
put
onto
the
national
listed
buildings
register
by
the
English
Heritage
organisation.
In
1989
the
Council
of
Southend
received
an
offer
from
the
city
of
Victoria
in
British
Columbia,
Canada
to
purchase
and
ship
the
statue
to
a
new
location
outside
their
Provincial
Government
offices
but
the
request
was
rejected.
In
March
2011
there
was
a
proposal
to
move
the
statue
to
the
newly
updated
Victoria
Circus
(Victoria
Gateway), this was also rejected.
Unfortunately
the
statue
has
been
subject
to
vandalism
over
the
years
mostly
with
her
pointing
hand,
her
finger
and
hand
has
been
broken
off
many
times.
In
October
2008
Southend
based
Bedini
&
Sons
sculptures
carved
a
new
hand
from
Carrara
Marble,
only
for
her
finger
to
be
broken
off
again.
The
statue
was
professionally
cleaned
in
2016.
1898 Statue of Queen Victoria Pier Hill
Royal Hotel
In
1791,
under
the
promotion
of
Thomas
Holland,
the
Grand
Terrace,
Grand
Hotel
and
Library
were
built
on
a
prominent
ridge
to
the
west
of
the
‘Old
Town’.
The
scheme
also
included
Assembly
and
Coffee
Rooms.
The
Terrace
and
Hotel
was
completed
in
1793
and
opened
on
the
evening
of
the
8th
July
with
a
ball
attended
by
170
distinguished
guest.
Although
the
resort
soon
began
to
attract
residents
and
visitors
progress
was
slow,
Thomas
Holland,
who
had
the
Hotel
and
nine
of
the
houses
adjacent,
was
carrying
a
heavy
financial
responsibility.
It
was
the
period
of
the
French
wars
when
there
was
constant
fear
of
a
landing
on
these
coast
by
the
enemy.
in
May
and
June
1797
during
the
period
of
mutiny
at
the
Nore
the
Ship
Hotel
was
one
of
the
Headquarters
of
the
leaders
of
the
mutiny.
It
was
recorded
that
no
depredation
whatever
was
committed
at
South
End
by
the
sailors,
but
that
the
town
had
received
few
visitors
during
the spring owing to the fear of disturbances.
The
summer
of
1797
Holland
was
unable
to
meet
his
commitments.
A
sale
was
held
of
“all
the
effects
at
the
Hotel,
Tavern,
Assembly
Room,
and
nine
large
dwellings
Houses,
on
the
Terrace,
at
New
South
End,
Late
the
property
of
Thomas
Holland”.
In
June
1800,
the
buildings
and
estate
of
New
South
End
were
sold
by
auction
in
London,
described
as
“
A
Leasehold
Estate
the
sale
consisted
of
the
Capital
Hotel
and
Assembly
Room
with
all
it’s
appurtenances,
and
fifteen
substantial
well
built
convenient
houses,
with
gardens,
enclosed
by
brick
walls,
coach
house
and
stables;
delightfully
situated
on
a
noble
Promenade
(enclosed
with
post
and
chain).
Also
sold
“a
Gothic
Building,
intended
for
a
Public
Library;
a
range
of
coach
houses
in
the
High
Street;
and
eight
houses
in
Market
Street”.
The
bulk
of
the
estate
passed
into
the
possession
of
Mr.
James
Heygate,
whose
son,
Sir
William
Heygate
was
mainly
responsible
for
the
passing
of
the
Southend
Pier
Bill
thirty
years
later,
Other
purchasers
of
houses
on
the
Terrace
were
Sir
T.
M
Wilson,
Bart,
Lady
Langham,
Mr.
J.T.
Hope,
and
other
families,
some
of whom resided at South End for the greater part of the year.
The
Terrace,
and
the
Hotel
which
was
also
called
the
“Capital”
was
renamed
“Royal”
following
the
visit
to
the
Upper
Town,
of
Princess
Caroline.
The
Royal
Terrace
and
Royal
Hotel
are
still
standing
and in use today avoiding demolition and the redevelopment.
The Statue of Queen Victoria
The Shrubbery
The
area
called
“The
Shrubbery”
is
an
piece
of
land
in
front
of
the
Royal
Terrace
which
runs
down
to
Western
Esplanade
west
of
Pier
Hill.
It
was
an
area
of
beauty
and
well
kept
grounds
with
its
entrance
from
the
promenade.
There
was
an
admission
fee
to
enter,
in
1898
the
cost
was
3d,
each
person,
but
weekly
family
tickets
could
be
obtained
for
1s.
This
area
was
later
to
become
the
site
for
Never
Never
Land
which
opened
in
1935,
it’s
most
busiest
period
being
in
the
1950s,
in
1972
it
closed
and
Never
Never
Land
was
removed,
the
area
returned
to
as
it
was
before
but
this
time
it
was
free
to
enter.
In
1987
a
new
look
Never
Never
Land
came
back
to
the
shrubbery
at
a
cost
of
£250,000,
by
2001
dwindling
visitors,
vandalism
and
high
costs
of
running
the
site,
Never
Never
Land
closed
on
Tuesday
16th
January
2001.
In
2019
The
council
installed
the
sleeping
giant,
a
huge
grass
figure
growing
out
of
the
ground
which
is
hoping
to
draw
people
into
the
magic
that
is
the
memory
of
so
many
from
their childhood and will be future memories for new residents and visitors.
1976 Pier Foreshore Offices
1874 Royal Hotel
c1905 Royal Hotel
1890s New Pier Hill Buildings
Pier Hill Bandstand
Early view in the Shrubbery
Advert Promoting the Shrubbery
GALLERIES 1 cont
Ritz Cinema
Ritz
cinema
was
built
in
1934
-
1935
on
the
corner
of
Grove
Road
and
Church
Road,
at
the
top
of
Pier
Hill,
and
was
owned
by
County
Cinemas,
designed
by
Robert
Cromie
and
built
by
Messrs.
E.D.
Winn
and
Co.,
of
Knightsbridge.
The
cinema
was
built
in
six
months
by
a
labour
force
of
four
hundred.
The
auditorium
had
a
seating
capacity
of
2,250
and
was
115
feet
long,
85
feet
wide,
the
proscenium
opening
was
50
feet
which
at
the
time
was
the
largest
in
Essex.
This
was
classed
as
a
super
cinema
built
with
modern
air
conditioning,
a
complicated,
but
modern
electric
system,
a
large
Conacher
organ
with
phantom
piano,
latest
projectors
with
wide
range
sound
apparatus.
The
Ritz
opened
on
Thursday
14th
February
1935
by
the
Mayor,
Councillor
A.T.
Edwards,
in
the
presents
of
a
large
gathering
of
representatives
of
all
branches
of
activity
in
the
life of the Borough.
County
Cinemas
were
merged
into
Oscar
Deutch’s
Odeon
circuit
in
1939,
which
was
taken
over
by
J.
Arthur
Rank
in
June
1940,
on
the
early
tragic
demise
of
Oscar
Deutch.
The
Ritz
closed
September
1940
because
of
wartime
conditions
and
did
not
reopen
until
May
1942,
a
full
schedule
did
not
start
until
26
July
1945
with
the
Saturday
morning
Boys
and
Girls
Club.
In
1956
the
Ritz
underwent
refurbishment
and
geared
up
to
become
the
replacement
picture
house
for
the
Gaumont
which
had
closed
that
same
year.
Many
of
the
staff
from
the
Gaumont transferred to the Ritz.
Later
the
café
at
the
Ritz
became
a
ballroom,
then
subsequently
became
disused.
The
organ
was
removed
and
went
to
the
Odeon,
Blackpool.
In
1968,
the
building
received
a
further
facelift,
costing
£6,000.
Sadly
on
8th
March
1972
the
Ritz
as
a
cinema
closed.
The
Ritz
had
been
steadily
losing
money
since
the
twin
Odeon
cinemas
opened.
Next,
at
a
cost
of
£100,000
the
Ritz
was
converted
into
the
Top
Rank
Bingo
Club,
later
being
leased
to
Invictor
Bingo.
In
1978
the
building
closed
and
became
derelict.
Finally,
amid
a
great
outcry
from
conservationists,
theatre
and
film
enthusiast,
The
Ritz
was
demolished
in
January
1981.
The
car
park
of
the
Royals
Shopping Centre now stands on the site of the Ritz.
Hotel Metropole
This
landmark
large
hotel
opened
in
1904,
shortly
afterwards
it
was
renamed
the
Palace
Hotel.
The
hotel
was
advertised
as
the
only
5-star
hotel
on
the
South
East
coast.
The
hotel
offered
200
bedrooms,
Private
suites,
Hot
and
cold
running
water,
Central
heating
and
gas
fires,
Sun
lounge,
Palm
court,
2
Masonic
rooms,
Suites
for
official
and
wedding
receptions,
banquets
etc.,
Squash
courts,
Cocktail
bar,
Winter
garden,
Ballroom,
and
billiards
etc.,
this
was
indeed
comfortable
accommodation
for
the
visitors
to
Southend.
The
hotel
served
as
a
military
hospital
in
both
world
wars.
The
comedy
duo
Laurel
and
Hardy
stayed
here
in
1952
whilst
appearing
in
a
variety
show
at
the
Odeon
in
the
High
Street.
In
the
latter
years
the
building
began
to
look
tired
and
uncared-for
until
a
full
refurbishment
took
place
and
the
new
Park
Inn
Palace Hotel opened on 1st March 2010.
1961 The Ritz
1971 The Ritz
1977 The Ritz
c1905 Hotel Metropole
1939 Advert for the Ritz
Early view of the Shrubbery
The Lion Hotel
The
Lion
Hotel
was
built
b1840,
In
1863
John
Chignell
is
listed
as
the
proprietor.
The
Pier
Hotel
opened
on
this
site
sometime
around
the
‘Lion’
closing
and
it
being
demolished.
In
about
1898
a
portion
of
the
Pier
Hotel
was
rebuilt,
it
was
advertised
at
the
time
as,
‘The
Hotel
which
has
been
rebuilt
is
situated
five
minutes’
walk
from
the
London
Tilbury
and
Southend
Railway,
and
about
ten
minutes
from
the
Great
Eastern.
The
Royal
Stables
are
at
the
rear
of
the
Hotel,
and
conveyances
of
every
description
can
be
obtained
form
the
Proprietor
at
a
few
moment’s
notice;
in
fact,
nothing
need
be
wanted
to
make
to
make
life
on
your
holidays
happy.
The
management
seem
to
anticipate
your
every
wish,
and
strive
their
utmost
to
make
you
feel
that
you
are
at
home
away
from
home.’ The Proprietor was H. Choppin.
Later
further
improvements
took
place
under
the
ownership
of
Messrs.
Truman,
Hanbury,
Buxton
and
Co.,
Ltd.,
and
opened
as
the
Grand
Pier
Hotel
under
the
proprietorship
of
Mr.
Steve
Slinger,
the
main
building
contractors
were
Messers.
Jas
Flaxman and Sons Ltd., 114 Southchurch Road, Southend-on-Sea.
Mr.
and
Mrs.
Steve
Slinger
were
both
well
known,
for
five
years
he
had
been
the
host
of
the
Spread
Eagle
Hotel,
Witham,
previously
residing
in
Chelmsford,
where
they
were
prominently
identified
with
the
entertainment
of
the
public.
At
the
Empire
Theatre
there
variety
shows
were
on
par
with
the
best
London
entertainments.
Mr.
and
Mrs.
Slinger
were
also
associated
for
some
time
with
the
control
of
the
Select
Kinema.
The
Grand
Pier
Hotel
was
demolished
in
the
early
1980s
to
make
way
for
the
new
Royals Shopping Centre development.
Pier Hill with the Lion Hotel arrowed
1977 Grand Pier Hotel
The Pier Hotel
Pier Restaurant
The
Pier
Restaurant
(previously
Chignells
owned
by
William
Joseph
Chignell
who
was
a
linen
Draper)
was
next
door
to
the
Lion
Hotel/Pier
Hotel.
The
proprietor
in
the
1890s
was
Mr.
A.W.
Bates.
Noted
fish
suppers
served
every
evening
7
to
11.
Hot
dinners
from 12:30 to 3pm cut from the joint with 2 vegetables, from 1/-.
Teas, cup of good tea. Coffee or Cocoa 2d.
Plain
Tea
6d,
with
shrimps
and
watercress
9d,
or
with
Ham,
egg, or cold meat 1s.
Beanfeasts
and
small
parties
catered
for,
accommodation
for
cyclist.
The
Pier
Restaurant
closed
and
did
not
relocate
when
this
building was demolished.
Southend Picture Palace
The
Southend
Picture
Palace
owned
by
Mr.
R.
Arnold
was
built
next
door
to
the
Grand Pier Hotel and opened in June 1909.
by
1913
ownership
had
changed
to
Mr.
F.F.
Ramuz
who
also
owned
the
Gem
Electric
Theatre,
Victoria
Avenue,
the
name
was
also
changed
to
the
Grove
Picture
Theatre.
In
1914,
the
name
changed
again
to
the
Pier
Hill
Cinema,
Mr
Burgh
was
now
the
new
owner having purchased the cinema from Mr Goldberg.
The
building
had
a
short
life
as
a
bioscope,
closing
in
1919.
For
a
time
after
it
was
used
as
a
Billiards
Hall,
later
being
developed
into
part
of
a
coach
station,
the
building
next
door
the
other
part,
and
used
by
Westcliff
Motor
Services.
In
1981
the
site of the former cinema was demolished for the Royals Shopping Centre.
Pier Hill with the Pier Restaurant arrowed
Pier Hill with the cinema arrowed
Pier Restaurant
Sea of Change Southend-on-Sea
The
promoters
of
the
scheme
to
develop
a
fashionable
sea
bathing
centre
on
the
Essex
Coast
had
in
mind
the
attractions
that
Brighton
and
Margate
could
offer,
no
attempt
was
made
to
re-fashion
the
village
(Old
or
Lower
Town),
which
had
already
won
some
small
repute
as
a
place
for
sea
bathing.
Instead
of
building
or
rebuilding
in
the
old
town
of
South
End,
what
would
be
created
was
a
new
town
or
New
South
End
(Upper
Town).
The
area
for
development
would
be
its
western
edge
on
the
higher
land
above
the
cliffs,
on
what
had
been
a
barren
plain,
or
woodland
waste.
The
site
was
covered
by
a
grove
consisting
mostly
of
ash
trees,
which
extended
along
the
Cliffs
to
the
top
of
what
later
became
Pier
Hill.
This
would
be
a
prominent
position
for
buildings,
a
great
advert
for
the
resort
to
those
who
passed
up
and
down
the
Thames,
with
extensive
views
over
the
Estuary,
with
tree
covered
Cliff
paths
leading
down
to
the
bathing
place.
By
the
year
1791
progress
had
been
made
in
the
building
of
the
Terrace (Royal Terrace) and the Grand Hotel (Royal Hotel) by Thomas Holland.
Mr.
John
Thomas
Hope,
who
owned
a
house
on
the
Royal
Terrace.
He
had
known
Southend
since
1791
and
could
speak
of
the
condition
of
Pier
Hill
from
many
years‘
knowledge.
The
road
leading
from
The
Royal
Hotel
to
the
lower
part
of
Southend,
he
said,
was
formerly
nothing
more
than
a
transverse
line
down
a
slope
of
the
cliff.
It
was
then
very
steep
and
not
more
than
breadth
enough
for
a
single
cart.
There
was
a
gate
in
the
middle
of
the
road
and
the
land
on
each
side
had
fallen
away
so
much
that
there
was
only
room
for
the
single
vehicle.
The
road
went
from
the
beach
up
to
the
top
of
the
Cliff
was,
Mr.
Hope
believed,
to
be
Major
Scratton’s
private
property
and
nobody
else
had
a
right
to
it.
A
footpath,
however,
formerly
went
along
it
the
whole
way.
Major
Scratton,
he
said
covenanted
by
his
lease
to
grant
to
the
lessees
up
above
a
right
of
way
down
the
hill.
They
contended
that
the
Major
was
bound
to
find
not
only
a
road,
but
a
good
road.
The
work
was
done
by
himself
or
the
shopkeepers.
The
trouble
arose
from
the
nature
of
the
soil.
The
clay
was
of
a
brittle
nature
and
when
exposed
to
the
atmosphere
it
crumbled.
They
often
Wanted
Major
Scratton
to
use
his
influence
with
the
parish
to
get
them
to
take
it
over
as
a
public
road,
but
he
would
not
do
so.
Before
the
road
was
made
there
was
only
one
means
of
communication,
a
road
down
to
the
seashore
that
was
MR.
Vandervord’s
house
up
to Prittlewell (Old Southend Road).
Prospect House
Prospect
House
situated
at
the
top
of
Pier
Hill
opposite
the
Royal
Hotel
was
the
home
of
William
Warwick
who
had
been
the
Doctor
in
residence
since
the
1840s.
George
Deeping
a
physician
who
had
begun
his
medical
career
at
Guys
Hospital
met
and
married
one
of
Warwick’s
daughters,
he
then
joined
her
father’s
practice.
In
1877
their
first
child
George
Warwick
Deeping
was
born
at
Prospect
House,
he
later
became
a
famous
writer.
The
building
would
later
become
Goings,
a
popular
fishing
tackle
shop.
Prospect
House
was
demolished
for
the
Royals
Shopping
centre.
The
underpass
constructed
in
Southend
in
the
late
1960s
early
1970s
was
named
“The
Deeping”
after
George Warwick Deeping.
Royal Library
The
Royal
Library
situated
opposite
the
Royal
Hotel
was
a
part
of
the
new
Southend,
it
had
good
reading
rooms
and
was
popular
especially
in
the
evenings
owing
to
the
raffles
and
other
similar
amusements.
In
1890
Charles
and
Zillah
Bullock
took
over,
Charles
began
to
sell
stationary
and
cigars
as
well
as
providing
newspapers.
In
1901
a
Receiving
Order
was
made
against
Zillah
Bullock.
In
1913
the
Royal
Library
with
joining
land
was
sold
at
auction
to
Frederick
Ramuz
for
£4,000.
Later
the
building
would
be
utilised
for
different
business
adventures
until
it
was
demolished
for
the
Royals Shopping Centre.
Royal Stores
The
Royal
Stores
(Rod
and
Reel)
was
situated
at
the
top
of
Pier
Hill.
Consisting
of
a
Tavern,
restaurant
with
seating
for
200
people,
smoking
room
and
billiards
hall.
The
Royal
Stores
had
a
long
colourful
life
serving
visitors
and
locals.
The
building
was
demolished to make way for the Royals Shopping Centre.
Pier Hill Fairground
c1889
a
fairground
had
been
established
on
Pier
Hill.
The
fairground
lasted
until
the
building
of
the
Hotel
Metropole
in
c1900.
The
‘Roly-Poly’
ride
secured
all
joys
of
complete seasickness, without leaving dry land.
1977 Royal Stores
Pier Hill with the fairground arrowed
1977 Prospect House
1897 Royal Library
